Saba: Island Magic
Island Map
Useful Information
The Ultimate Souvenir
Hidden Treasure: Queen's Gardens Resort
Sea Journeys by Will Johnson
Saba Directory
Saba: Island Magic
 Saba entices travelers who are looking for seclusion and peaceful surroundings. Rising majestically to 3,000 feet, “The Unspoiled Queen” is a gateway to magical experiences a million miles from the hurly-burly of the modern-day world.
Christopher Columbus is said not to have landed on Saba, since the island’s sheer cliffs and rocky coastline made it impossible to land. There are some signs that Carib or Arawak Indians may have inhabited the island—but during the 1600s, Saba was a pirates’ lair. It was also claimed by a stray Frenchman for his king, settled by St. Eustatian colonists and then captured by an English buccaneer. Finally, the Netherlands took possession of it in 1816. Rum and sugar were big industries in the 17th and 18th centuries, but Saba was very small and it was difficult to farm on the steep slopes. So Saban men took to the sea, making their living as legitimate sailors, while the island’s women produced an important product: Saba lace. The island is mainly woodland forest with ferns—and its rich, damp soils allow lush plant life to abound. Saba has been referred to as the “Elfin Forest” or “King Kong Island,” because of the swathing mists and mossy appearance that pervade the top of its looming, but dormant, volcano.
One of Saba’s tourist attractions are the hiking trails through the verdant forests. Enthusiasts can hike Mount Scenery or follow the Sandy Cruz trail, ending up at the luxurious Queen’s Garden Resort for lunch poolside. Ask for a tour of the property with manager Claire, and take a peek at the richly appointed accommodations. Another option is to begin your hike at the Ecolodge, Saba’s nod to ecotourism and one of the quaintest accommodations at 1,800 feet. A hike up Mount Scenery from Windwardside will also bring you to the Ecolodge. Hungry hikers are served meal components plucked straight from the gardens behind the restaurant, brimming with taste and freshness.
 The plants, animals and marine wildlife in the area are diverse and protected by the Saba Conservation Foundation. Ask park ranger James Johnson to take you on a guided hike and benefit from his knowledge and experience. Stop by the trail shop at the start of the Mount Scenery trail in Windwardside, to purchase your hiking tag and support the Foundation’s tireless efforts to preserve Saba’s close-to-nature lifestyle.
Saba’s second-biggest attraction is world-class diving. Saba is a dormant volcano that rises steeply from the ocean. Within half a mile from shore, you can find depths of 1,000 feet and more. The closer environs offer some very interesting and extremely varied diving, while offshore diving can leave divers speechless. The underwater world reveals a colorful kingdom of brilliant corals that teems with reef sharks, sea turtles and rainbow fish. These dive sites rank among the top 10 scuba spots in the Caribbean. Divers can enjoy the professional services of three excellent shops: Sea Saba with Lynn and John, Saba Deep with Cheri and Tony, and Saba Divers with Barbara and Wolfgang. Day-trippers can enjoy a double-tank dive, arriving on the Edge ferry and transferring straight to the dive boats. Guests on a longer stay will be able to enjoy the deepest dives at 9 a.m. About 2.5 miles southwest of Saba is the Saba Bank, a large -submerged atoll of rich biodiversity and a prime fishing ground, particularly for lobster.
Driving “The Road” on Saba is considerably daunting because of its s-bend curves that hug precipitous cliffs. “The Road” is also known as “the road that couldn’t be built.” Josephus Lambert Hassell defied Dutch and Swiss engineers who truly believed it could not be built. After five years of work and a correspondence course, he built the road with a crew of locals; it extends from Fort Bay to The Bottom. The first motor vehicle arrived in 1951. For day-trippers, the driving is best left to the professionals. Ask for taxi drivers Eddie, Wayne Peterson, Garvis, George, Mr. Simmons or Gloria, aka “The World’s Greatest Grandma.” You will be in safe hands and able to focus on the exceptional scenery flowing by... there’s a view from everywhere on Saba!
 It’s impossible not to notice the uniformity of the architecture on Saba: Entire villages consist of cottages painted white with red roofs and “Saba green” shutters. Yes, there really is a paint sold by the name of “Saba green.” Manicured gardens are transformed from the ever-encroaching forest by experts Julie and Andrew Hassell. The pride of the Saban people shines through in their homes. It’s also evident through the lack of litter anywhere on the streets and a well-maintained sense of order. Residents still don’t lock their doors. The distinctive cottage-style buildings carry through to the hotels as well. Queen’s Gardens Resort sits perched on a panoramic hillside—whitewashed with a red roof and green shutters, of course. It is Saba’s luxury hotel, with a Hampshire Classic hotel rating, and features Jacuzzis in the rooms and a large pool and bar area with a stunning view. The restaurant is simply unsurpassed. Enjoy lunch on the open-air patio under the mango trees, or dinner in five-star surroundings, with large, open doorways that let in the fresh mountain air.
Juliana’s Hotel is nestled in Windwardside. The cottage-style rooms are comfortable and the ambience enhanced by friendly hosts Wim and Johanna. It is around the sparkling pool and at the hotel’s brightly decorated restaurant, Tropics Café, that guests really get together. Newly renovated and under new management, Tropics Café delights with tasty favorites like pulled pork sandwiches and fresh fish dishes with tantalizing salsas. A dip in the pool after a long hike is heavenly.
You certainly couldn’t shop in Saba the way that you can in St. Maarten/St. -Martin, but you cannot leave without a sample of Saba lace or a taste of Saba Spice—a potent and heady local liqueur. You absolutely must visit the charming workshop and gift shop featuring colorful items created by glassblowing whiz and artist Jo Bean. Her array of works will keep your attention for hours. If you’re so inspired, you can even take a brief course in glassblowing.
 If you arrive by air, experience the thrill of landing on the world’s shortest commercial runway, and then hold your breath and close your eyes as your plane flies off the side of a cliff to depart. Saba receives scheduled air service from St. Maarten through Windward Island Airways. As far as arriving by sea, a pier was completed in Fort Bay in 1972 to access the island and has opened Saba’s doors to visitors. High-speed ferry Edge offers regular service to the island Wednesday through Sunday, and is soon to link Saba and Statia with ferry transport. The unique wave-piercing design of this ferry enables Edge to easily negotiate the often choppy seas along the 28-mile journey. Saba C Transport’s ferry Dawn II also links St. Maarten and Saba, with cargo and passenger transport. Their schedule of early morning departures from Saba and late afternoon departures from St. Maarten makes traveling to Saba more flexible.
The Saba Tourist Office, headed by Glenn Holm, is the driving force behind Saba’s worldwide promotion and continued exposure to the diving and ecotourism world. At the offices situated in Windwardside, visitors can get brochures, posters and CDs of the island. Perhaps their most effective marketing tool is the comprehensive and updated website, www.sabatourism.com.
Saba is pure magic; from misty heights to plunging depths, she entices travelers and then bewitches them with unspoiled beauty.
 Traveling to Saba:
Edge Ferry
Tel: 599-544-2631
E-mail: aquamania@sintmaarten.net
www.stmaarten-activities.com
DAWN II FERRY
Saba C Transport
Tel: 599-416-2299
E-mail: info@sabactransport.com
www.sabactransport.com
Winair
Tel: 599-545-4237
www.fly-winair.com
Map of Saba
Click on map for PDF version.
Useful Information
Population: 1,500
Weather: Daytime temperature on Saba averages 80 F, give or take a few degrees. Easterly trade winds and the mountain create ever-changing cloud movements. Winter evenings often require a light sweater. Temperatures will always be cooler on the top of Mount Scenery.
Banking: The official currency is the NAfl (guilder), exchanged at about NAfl 1.80 = US$1.00. Travelers cheques and U.S. dollars, as well as major credit cards, are widely accepted. Two branch banks are open on Saba.
Courtesy & Dress: Casual sportswear is appropriate dress anytime on Saba. Bathing suits are not appropriate within the villages. A light wrap may be needed in the evenings in the wintertime.
Electricity: U.S. Standard (110 volts).
Language: Everyone speaks English, although Dutch is the official language.
Taxes and Tipping: The government room tax of 5 percent is automatically added to your bill. A service charge of 10 or 15 percent will be added to your bill. For taxis and guides, tip at your own discretion.
Time Zone: Saba is on Atlantic Standard Time year-round. During daylight savings time, noon in New York equals 1 p.m. on the island. During spring and summer time, the hour is the same on the Eastern Seaboard as it is on the island.
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Have you visited St. Maarten by cruise ship recently? Then you know one day is just not enough for St. Maarten's 37 breathtaking beaches, the shopper's paradise of Duty Free bling and luxury goods, exciting casinos, entertainment and nightlife -- not to mention the glorious food in this culinary heaven. 
The Queen's Gardens is Saba's leading luxury resort and is an upscale, casually chic yet elegant hotel which features twelve spacious one and two-bedroom suites, each occupying a complete floor. Dramatic views, fine cuisine and a staff that offers highly personalized service has earned Queen's Gardens a guest list that includes dignitaries and royalty. 
All Queen's Gardens guest suites have a panoramic view of the area which offers magnificent vistas of the rain forest, the mountains and the sapphire Caribbean Sea. Early morning mists can be seen rolling off the nearby mountains. The resort's gardens offer a full array of mature flora, including 100-year old Mango trees and local Saba fauna (and absolutely no mosquitoes).
Saba's maritime heritage goes back to the pirates who first settled the island. In 1629, the Spanish recaptured St. Kitts and dispersed the French and English settlers, who turned to piracy, and some settled on Saba. In 1665, Thomas Morgan (uncle of Sir Henry Morgan) with a group of the brethren of the coast from Port Royal, Jamaica captured St. Eustatius and Saba, and a good number of those pirates remained on Saba, as well. 
Many captains from Saba forged links with shipbuilders in New England and became captains and part owners of many of the great square riggers, barkentines and schooners of the 18th and 19th centuries.
It was in one of those boats-armed with the tales of the sea which I had heard from the old sea captains and the sea genes inherited from my pirate ancestors-that at the age of 13 I undertook my first sea voyage. The old sloop had no motor and we became becalmed and it took us some 28 hours to cover the 32 miles to St. Maarten/St. Martin. 
We are part of the natural world, and as island people, the sea has become part of us. Sabeans still make a living from the sea, supplying the lobster and red snapper the visitors of St. Maarten/St. Martin enjoy.
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Take a quick trip on Edge I or Edge II the fastest way to get to neighboring islands. These high speed ferries allow you to enjoy day trips for diving, hiking or touring. 
Bluebeard Charters out of Simpson Bay features day-sail trips on its Heineken Cat to Anguilla that include a fabulous snorkeling stop at Prickly Pear, a magical white-sand beach surrounded by three reefs teeming with marine life and bathed by translucent sapphire-colored waters. Guests are treated to a barbecue lunch and plenty of cold drinks. 
