A Day at the Beach: Sand, Sun and Fun in St. Maarten/St. Martin

By Melanie Reffes

Dutch St. Maarten
From Great Bay Beach, the parade of cruise ships sailing into the harbor is one of the signature vistas. Sun-worshippers can stroll along the renovated boardwalk from the Sonesta Great Bay Resort to the cruise ship pier, where cappuccino sipping reigns supreme at the many seaside bistros and cafés. Bustling with vendors renting snorkel gear and hawking Heineken beer, the beach is parallel to the pedestrian-friendly Front Street—which is chockablock with duty-free stores and power shoppers on the hunt for bargains.

With views that put postcards to shame, Guana Bay is a sandy sliver behind the Great Salt Pond en route to Oyster Pond. Without trees for shade or craftspeople selling jewelry fashioned from coconut shells, the beach is never crowded. Since it faces the Atlantic Ocean, the undertow rules out swimming for most people except the very experienced; however, the white-capped waves beckon brave body boarders and surfing enthusiasts. Stunning views of St. Barths less than 15 miles away have earned the beach a reputation as one of the dreamiest spots to wile away a sun-drenched afternoon.

A seashell away from the Princess Juliana International Airport, Simpson Bay Beach fronts a half-moon-shaped harbor with cool blue water and a dizzying array of mega-yachts that pass under the Simpson Bay Bridge. Protected from the strong northeasterly winds and facing the Caribbean Sea, the beach has a few watersports facilities and a visible shipwreck that juts up from the ocean floor. Without high-rise buildings along the shoreline, the turquoise sea is unobstructed eye candy for the photographers in the crowd.

Near the border with St. Martin, Cupecoy Beach is Dutch St. Maarten’s only clothing-optional beach. With statuesque golden sandstone cliffs seen nowhere else on the island, gin-clear water and sheltered caves, the beach is a big hit with privacy-seekers and wistful romantics. Facing southwest, the neighboring islands of Saba, St. Eustatius, St. Kitts and Anguilla can be seen on a clear day. Dany’s Beach Bar tempts with a delectable menu of chicken and ribs, while a massage with the salt raked from the ponds of Salt Cay, grape seed oil and cocoa butter is worth the splurge at the über-luxe Christian Dior Spa at The Cliff in Cupecoy.

Set against the green mountains, Dawn Beach is a soft stretch of sand facing the east side of the island. With plenty of room for Frisbee throwing or paddleball playing, water babies will delight in an underwater tropical kaleidoscope that’s an easy swim from shore. Condos and the Westin Resort face the beach; however, savvy sunbathers prefer the middle of the bay for a more laid-back vibe. Early risers are treated to a brilliant sunrise and the best French toast this side of Marigot at Mr. Busby’s Beach Bar, which opens bright and early at 7:30 a.m.

French St. Martin
The granddaddy of the clothing-optional beaches and one of the most famous beaches in the eastern Caribbean, Orient Bay is also de rigueur for windsurfing, water skiing, parasailing, horseback riding and champagne cocktails as the sun melts into the horizon. Sweeping around a cove on 2 miles of soft white coral sand, the Bay consists of five beaches: Kontiki, Kakao, Bikini Beach, Waikiki and Coco Beach. Club Orient, the island’s only naturist resort, sits pretty at the southern tip with its nude beach open to the public. Affectionately dubbed the St. Tropez of St. Martin, Orient Bay is Caribbean chic with samba and salsa bands at the Boo Boo Jam Bar, au naturel sunset cruises and people-watching par excellence.

Aptly named, Baie Longue is not only the longest beach on the island but one of the most exclusive, where the ocean meets a brilliant strip of limestone. Clothing-optional, the sandy strand is peppered with pricey real estate, including La Samanna, the swishy celebrity-studded resort at the eastern end of the beach. Très magnifique for a picnic pour deux or a lazy afternoon of perfecting the fine art of doing nothing, the beach is also favored by seashell aficionados who collect exotic treasures nestled in the sand.

With pinkish sand courtesy of tiny pieces of coral, Baie Rouge Beach is a gem on the Atlantic coast of the island. Close to Marigot, the beach is bordered by the Falaise des Oiseaux cliffs on the west and Devil’s Hole on the east—a steep hole in the middle of the cliffs flooded by water. Although the eastern end is the most popular, the west end is for those who prefer birthday suits to swimsuits. Business is brisk for the entrepreneurs who barbecue spicy West Indian fare, pour frosty beer and rent lounge chairs and snorkeling gear.

The Full Moon parties at Kali’s Beach Bar are the star attraction on Friar’s Bay Beach, north of Marigot. In business for two decades, Kali’s is a happening hot spot with midnight bonfires, jammin’ reggae bands and an all-night blowout when the moon is full. A bumpy dirt road leads directly to the beach with its unruffled waves and soothing surf.

The island’s best-kept beach secret, Happy Bay is a charming stretch of waterfront unfettered by life away from the shoreline. Primo for a picnic and snorkeling around the rocks right off the beach, this serene sliver of Shangri-la is a palm-lined crescent framed by emerald hills. On the north side of Friar’s Bay, the beach is a 15-minute walk up the hill, down a footpath and through the underbrush—but well worth the effort to get happy on Happy Bay.

Critter Care In The Caribbean

By Melanie Reffes

Ask Pamela Sims about the time she lured a green monkey out of the hills by placing a few apples in a cage, and you’ll hear one of many tales about the animals of St. Maarten. From cats and dogs to birds and iguanas—and yes, green monkeys—island critters are well taken care of, courtesy of Pamela Sims and the other volunteers who staff the St. Maarten Animal Welfare Foundation. “I came home one day to a message from an islander who said a green monkey was eating his wife’s orchids,” she says from the Foundation’s booth at Dock St. Maarten. “I immediately headed out to deal with the situation, because monkeys can become a real nuisance if not handled properly.”

With an enthusiastic team, one animal ambulance and the donated services of three veterinarians, the Foundation aids animals in distress, arranges pet sterilizations and finds homes for strays. Funded mostly through donations, the Foundation sells T-shirts, bags and caps from their booth near the boardwalk, and hosts dog shows, dog walkathons and wine tastings to raise money for their tireless work with animals.

“We also distribute educational materials to every school child on the Dutch side,” Sims says, describing the outreach program. The Foundation’s goal is a Christmas without puppies, because people give them as gifts and by February, they can often get tired of them. Reducing the number of homeless animals is a priority, and through the Foundation’s efforts, strays are less visible on the island. “We are very proud of this achievement,” she says. “It is not only good for the animals, but also good for our tourism product.” Tel. (599) 520-8887

Seeing Green

Green is fast becoming St. Maarten/St. Martin's favorite color as residents and visitors band together to preserve the natural treasures that inspire love at first sight — the rolling hills, the precious and nurturing mangroves, the sandy beaches and the spectacular underwater life.

As a bustling tourist destination, the demand for more hotels, villas and condos is insatiable — and oftentimes they are built at the expense of the island's natural environment.

Fighting back are several conservation and nature groups, such as Nature Foundation St. Maarten, St. Maarten Pride, Ocean Care, Environmental Protection in the Caribbean and Reserve Naturelle on the French side.

Focusing their efforts on educating residents and visitors, these groups take on developers, polluters and the government in their quest to ensure that the island remains a tropical paradise for years to come.

The filling in of Philipsburg's Great Salt Pond has been an ongoing battle between environmentalists and the government for many years. The pond, once the site of the island's main economic activity (salt harvesting), is now a symbol of times past. Great Salt Pond collects the runoff from the hills in times of heavy rains and hurricanes. As the population increases, the need for more infrastructure has led to land reclamation, raising fear that the holding capacity of this natural water basin has diminished.

Another historical site under threat is Emilio Wilson Estate, a former sugar plantation, in Cul de Sac. Strong opposition from the community to a proposed luxury residential development on the estate has led to the government taking steps to make it a monument. Aside from the historical ruins, which include a slave village, the estate is also ecologically valuable. A team from the New York Botanical Garden discovered a primitive leafy cactus on the estate and never-before-recorded moss and lichens.

Mullet Pond, a section of Simpson Bay Lagoon, is surrounded by red, white and black mangroves. It is a nursery for shrimp, fish and a variety of other underwater life. Despite its ecological importance, this natural water filter's future is hanging in the balance as plans to redevelop the hurricane-ravaged Mullet Bay Resort gain momentum. Environmental groups that have closed ranks to form the Mullet Pond Coalition are engaged in fierce lobbying to zone the pond as a protected area.

Beaches around the island are also under threat of being closed off to the public. While all beaches are currently public, some property owners have tried to limit access.

Sea turtles are also affected by the overcrowding of beaches that are flooded by too much light. Sea turtles return annually to beaches where they've hatched with their clutch of eggs. However, the numbers coming ashore are dwindling because of too much human activity and harsh outdoor lighting that disorients them.

These battles being waged by environmentalists and conservationists are only the upper leaves of the mangrove forests. To preserve the island's natural beauty, its beaches and wetlands, visitors and residents alike are urged by the groups to help save the green!

Local St. Maarten/St. Martin Secrets

Every destination has its hidden gems and St. Maarten/Martin is no exception. Some of our best lie offshore, but don't fret: You won't have to swim or wade to these. Most are only a short boat ride away from the eastern coast. Come along as we explore the uninhabited French islands of Pinel, Green Cay and Tintamarre.

Pinel. This protected nature reserve boasts a calm and sheltered beach, perfect for families. Lunch, beach chairs and umbrellas are available, and there's also great hiking. Pinel is only a five-minute ferry ride from French Cul de Sac, with two boats ferrying island lovers back and forth between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m. (be sure and check with your boat captain for his last pick-up time). Don't leave without trying the homemade banana rum at the Caribuni Restaurant.

Green Cay. Spectacular. Romantic. Paradisiacal. You may not find the right words to describe Green Cay, the smallest of the three islands. This deserted and uninhabited isle is perfect for suntanning and romantic interludes. There are no services, so visitors must bring necessities, like water, food and sun block.

Tintamarre. The sheltered bay here attracts lots of boaters, and the island is renowned for the rumored healing powers of its mud baths. You'll find the rather uninviting mud just beyond the tree line. Lather it on, let it dry and then rinse. Your skin will feel silky smooth afterwards. Visitors are occasionally treated to the sight of whales and dolphins cavorting around this magical island.

Nature Foundation: Protecting Our Feathered Friends

St. Maarten is home to almost 200 species of birds. Some species are year-round residents; others come here in the winter to escape the harsh weather in North America.

Their time here is crucial, since they need to rest and gather strength for the busy summer breeding season. Environmental Protection In the Caribbean (EPIC) is an environmental organization that has partnered with the Nature Foundation of St. Martin and Royal Caribbean International to protect birds on the island, involving both residents and guests. In fact, the partners have set up bird-watching facilities at Fresh Pond and Little Bay Pond. Here are some of their tips to protect our feathered friends, who are good indicators of ecological health.

• Protect and restore important bird habitats, such as ponds, mangroves, and forests.
• Create a bird habitat in your own backyard by planting native trees and flowers.
• Don't feed birds human food; it's unhealthy and can artificially increase the population, which changes the natural balance.
• Pick up trash, especially plastics such as grocery bags and fishing line; birds may consume or get tangled in this refuse and die.
• Support conservation activities by donating time, money or materials.

To learn more about EPIC and what else you can do to protect the environment, visit epicislands.org or naturefoundationsxm.org.

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On your tour around the island, sample the island's cuisine. Use our restaurant guide to help plan as well as a handy guide to activities and sights here.